Heeramandi: Lahore's Forgotten Jewel
- By Shargeel Sheikh -
- May 13, 2024
The wind carried a spew of giggles, accompanied by the vivid tinkles of Ghungroos. They were of what was happening inside the curtained windows. The alleys were rich from the tunes of harmonium, tabla, sitar etc. The edifices speak of utter regal and aesthetics; after all, kings, queens and princes were made and groomed in these alleys and streets. Where the royals patronized and where the art itself was nurtured, Heeramandi was that lively place in the city of Lahore, one of the jewels cities of the Indian sub-continent.
A mixed cast of amazement and disappointment took over me a few months earlier as I heard a news on social media. Sanjay Leela Bhansali, a celebrated Bollywood director and producer has produced a series for Netflix. The project revolves around the famous Heera Mandi of Lahore.
As an avid history lover, the news was apparently a delight to me. Yet I kept thinking of our incompetency and our limitations of digging into and depicting the stories of our land ourselves instead of our neighbors touting it.
A 2005 book penned by the esteemed author Bapsi Sidhwa highlights the world of Lahore and the Lahories, back in the days when the city was known as the Paris of the East. Among the stories within the walled old city, a much highlighted was the chronicles of Shahi Mohalla, aka HeeraMandi.
Notoriously known as the Heeramandi (People often refer “Heera” as diamonds), this set of alleys and streets is situated within the walled city of old Lahore. To even discuss this topic with today’s local is a challenge in itself. Yet I want to dive deeper into its past, the days this area was once known for. Not for its cheap prostitution or debauchery, but for the sophistication and the splendor that constituted its fame in the once Mughal most adored city. Heeramandi played a significant part in turning Lahore into a city of traditional art and culture.
During the 16th century rule of the Mughal rule, the city of Lahore had been made the rapidly growing empire’s capital. Monuments were being erected and the ambiance was everything pertaining to aesthetics and architecture.
An interesting area had emerged, just at the south of the Lahore Fort. It housed all the attendants and the servants of the emperor, of his family, and of his court. Since they all had their connections and services dedicated to the Mughal court, the new neighborhood soon came to be known as Shahi Mohalla (The Royal Neighborhood).
It was not long before some new faces started emerging in this royal neighborhood, not only new but enchanting. These faces were of the artists- the dancers and the musicians and singers. These were the ones proudly performing for the royal family and court.
Tawaif , a derogatory term today, but a celebrated term then became prominent as being associated by these regal dancers. These later came out to be the harbingers and the preservers of arts and culture. It is baffling to recall an era of regency that surrounded the area that now has become dilapidated and vilified.
Back in those days, the attendance of such Tawaif was a status of etiquette and luxury for the elites. These Tawaifs were trained by their masters (Ustaad) and were often the caretakers of young princes and princesses for it was in their good hands did these young royals receive education and the mannerism of the elites.
Things weren’t always sunshine and rainbows for the city however. During the half of 18th century, the Mughals territory was brutally attacked by the Persians and the Afghans such as Nader Shah and Ahmed shah Abdali. During these brutal campaigns, Lahore was looted, burned, and invaded multiple times.
After chiseled from the Mughals to the Afghans, many of the courtesans and Tawaif were forced and coerced to leave the city. The concept of prostitution was introduced into the Shahi Mohalla. This was the time of the brothels being established in different parts of the walled city.
During the 17th century, the Lahore society, particularly the Sikh community, came together and liberated the city from the Afghans. During these times in 1799, A Sikh by the name of Ranjit Singh took over the reign of Lahore and became hell bent in uniting the entire land of Punjab.
Ranjit Singh reintroduced many of the old customs of the Mughals, one of which was the re-establishment of Shahi Mohalla. The courtesans, dancers, singers and musicians were called back to Lahore and the city’s artistic soul was replenished. The famous Tawaifs returned, and the culture continued.
It is said that the Sikh Maharaja Ranjit Singh once fell in love with a Tawaif with the name Moran. Ranjit Singh not only married her but also constructed a mansion exclusively for her new wife within the walled city.
Few years later, Hira Singh Dogra who had become the newly appointed prime minister of the Sikh empire proposed a plan to reconstruct the Shahi Mohalla into a commercial bazaar. After the death of Ranjit Singh, Hira Singh brought major renovations.
Shahi Mohalla had gained a new name during the times of this new construction: Hira Mandi or Heera Mandi as it is known today. There were shops for food grains and spices and some jewelry for the locals. The residents of the Shahi Mohalla continued harboring rich art in manifold forms while attracting the royals.
The years 1845-49 saw another turmoil with the rising animosity between the Sikhs and the British. There were multiple battles (Sikh-Anglo wars) in which the Sikh army lost and Lahore was captured by the British East India Company. This put the fate of the Heera Mandi along with the entire city at stake once again.
Unlike the Mughals and the Sikh, the British were least interested in the traditional culture. Court patronages were banned for the Tawaif and they were being seen as potential sex workers by the British. An era of darkness had engulfed.
However, to the locals, Heeramandi was still a beacon of arts and culture. Many people still patronized this area. This time they were not royals but wealthy men across India. They came and experienced the joyful performance of the artists. But these men started asking sexual favors gradually in exchange with cash and gold. Since the artists were struggling to make a living under the British, they had little choice but to accept.
Throughout decades, Heera Mandi has inspired millions across the subcontinent. Its folklore and mysteries have been a topic of avid discussions. Writers have penned about Heera Mandi, Directors have produced multiple movies on it, and historians have published several documentaries.
The most known fable pertaining to the area of Heeramandi that has enthralled both Indians and Pakistanis is perhaps the love story of Anarkali and Shehzada Salim (Mughal Emperor Jahangir). Famous artists and musicians have hailed from this neighborhood such as Noor Jahan, Kurshid Begum, etc.
Heeramandi today is anything but regal. It has become a notorious red-light area with sex workers barely surviving with basic necessities. It has been vilified and berated throughout recent decades. The only aspects that are left untouched are some of the buildings that stand in unkempt conditions. Today nothing of it speaks of the golden era that Heera Mandi lived through.
In my opinion, the government should take serious notice of the worsening place and should renovate it for the tourists.
A place beautifully mentioned in literature and movies, if our government implies enough efforts, Heera Mandi could come alive. The buildings and the forbidden streets could clearly tell their stories to the world of how sophisticated art was nourished along with its gentry. It’s high time we start telling our stories by ourselves.