Sirbaz Khan becomes first Pakistani to summit all 14 world highest peaks

ISLAMABAD: In an incredible display of courage and determination, Sirbaz Khan has become the first Pakistani mountaineer to conquer all 14 of the world’s peaks above 8000 metres,  Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) said on Friday.

“This extraordinary accomplishment demonstrates his unwavering passion and dedication to the sport of mountaineering,” Secretary of ACP Karrar Haidri said in a statement.

Sirbaz has faced the most extreme conditions, from the perilous heights of Mount Everest to the mighty K2. Faced with freezing temperatures, treacherous avalanches, oxygen-depleted altitudes, and the constant threat of crevasses, he has repeatedly demonstrated his resilience and strength.

“His success not only represents personal triumph, but also serves as an inspiration to mountaineers worldwide.

“Sirbaz Khan’s journey exemplifies the power of perseverance and meticulous preparation, cementing his place in mountaineering history,” Haidri added.

Sirbaz Khan who belongs to Aliabad area of Hunza valley in Gilgit-Balitstan had previously climbed 13 mountains out of 14 mountains higher than 8000 meters in the world and now he would became the first Pakistani to summit 14 out 14 peaks.

It is pertinent to mention here that Shishapangma was the 14th-highest mountain in the world, at 8,027 metres i.e. 26,335 ft above sea level and located entirely within Tibet. In 1964, it became the final eight-thousander to be climbed.

In the world of mountaineering, it was considered a great honor to climb all the mountains above 8000 meters and this feat had been achieved by 41 mountaineers from all over the world so far.

Sirbaz Khan climbed Nanga Parbat in October 2017, K2 in July 2018, Lhotse in May 2019, Broad peak in July 2019, Manaslu in September 2019, Annapurna in April 2021, Mount Everest in May 2021, Gasherbrum II in July 2021, Dhaulagiri I in October 2021,  Kangchenjunga in May 2022, Makalu in July 2022, Gasherbrum I in August, 2022 and Cho Oyu in October 2023.

In a message received here, Sirbaz dedicated his achievement to the memory of late Pakistani mountaineer Muhammad Ali Sadpara.

Starting his climbing career in 2016, Sirbaz was known to be a focused and talented climber. Earlier in 2019, Sirbaz also made history by becoming the first Pakistani to summit the world’s fourth highest peak Mount Lhotse (8516m) in Nepal without the use of supplementary oxygen.

Believing in the spirit of volunteerism, Sirbaz had actively participated in different volunteer services organised by the Aga Khan Youth and Sports Board for Pakistan.