Giorgio Armani debuts first menswear line without founder as Milan Fashion Week ends

MILAN—Giorgio Armani’s menswear show—the first staged without any input from the brand’s founder, who died in September—closed Milan Fashion Week on Monday, presenting a winter collection built around silky, iridescent fabrics.

“Cangiante,” the Italian word for iridescent, was chosen as the title of the collection to describe something that remains entirely itself yet shifts depending on one’s perspective, according to the show notes.

“The metaphor lends itself naturally to Giorgio Armani’s style today,” they said.

“Leo Dell’Orco’s vision emerges naturally after 40 years working alongside Giorgio Armani, and from a desire to make a personal mark on what stands as his debut,” the notes added.

Dell’Orco, longtime collaborator and partner of the late designer, continues to oversee the menswear division after the death of Armani. He is also the fashion house’s main shareholder by voting rights and chairman of the foundation in charge of the sale of a stake in the company.

The new collection combined velvet, crepe and chenille with brushed cashmeres, felted wools and matte leathers, creating rich, tactile contrasts.

“It was a beautiful show marked by continuity, with great attention to detail and a magnificent selection of fabrics,” said Federico Giglio, chief executive of Italy-based high-end fashion retailer Giglio.com.

Dell’Orco stepped out at the end of the fashion show to greet the audience, accompanied by his nephew Gianluca Dell’Orco, who has worked for many years in the menswear design studio.